SINGARAJA
AREA
An
Old Port and a New Resort
Both
the beauty and the cultural uniqueness of Buleleng make it rewarding
to visit, and tourism continues to increase each year. If you
like the sea and are looking for a place that is scenic, quiet,
clean and culturally distinctive, include Buleleng on your itinerary.
The
following information on the sights of Buleleng is divided into
two sections. The first treats sights in and around the capital
of Singaraja, located in the central part of Buleleng, and the
region to the west. The following section concerns sights in the
area to the east of the capital.
Tour
of Singaraja
The
sights of Singaraja reflect the city's successive historical incarnations
first as a royal court center, then as the center of Dutch commerce
and administration on Bali, and now as a modern district capital.
Starting
in the western end of the city visit Pantai Lingga, just before
the Banyusari bus station. The road to Pantai Lingga ends at Bukit
Suci ("sacred hill") an old Chinese cemetery bordering
on the sea. Some of the graves are most unusual, such as that
of an illustrious member of the Chinese community. Surrounded
by a rail, it is guarded by lions and two life-sized black guards
swathed in white turbans and bearing lance. Walk through the cemetery
to Pantai Lingga, a swimming spot much favored Locals
From
Pantai Lingga head east to JI. Dewi Sartika 42. This is the Pertenunan
Berdikari Hand Woven Cloth Factory, specializing in beautiful
replicas of antique Buleleng textiles, many in silk and all highly-priced.
Watch thread being spun, cloth being woven and buy direct from
the manufacturer.
East
of the main crossroads of town lies Singaraja's main Shopping
District. A few shops sell tourist souvenir items, though generally-speaking
the shopping is much better in south Bali. Interestingly, however,
basic items tend to be cheaper here. The Buleleng Market (pasar)
is down a narrow lane runs behind a northeast group of building.
Around dusk this area turns into an animated night market - not
to be missed.
From
the main shopping district it is just a short drive to the Old
Harbor. The few old buildings lining the port date from the Dutch
colonial period. Have a look at the gigantic Yuddha Mandalatama
independence monument with an Indonesian fighter bearing the flag.
An unusual sight in the same vicinity is the Chinese Temple or
klenteng, one of the few on Bali and evidence of this community's
long presence in the town. While one may not enter the temple,
a good view can be gained from within the compound. It houses
many exquisite antique pots and cloths.
At
the southern end of Singaraja, overlooking the junction of JI.
Ngurah Rai and JI. Veteran, stands the imposing statue of Singambararaja.
A winged lion who gazes imperiously over the city. The name "Singaraia"
means "Lion King."
Heading
east from here along JI. Veteran , stop in at No. 22 on the fight-hand
side. Ibis is the Gedong Kertya, a library founded by the Dutch
in 1928 for the preservation of lontar (palm-leaf) texts collected
in Bali and Lombok. A glass display case in the second room contains
these traditional manuscripts, as well as several Prasasti (ancient
copper plate indiscretions). You may be fortunate to witness one
of the employees copying an old lontar onto new Palm-leaves, or
even see the now rare art of making prasi (drawings on palm-leaf).
Directly
behind the Gedong Kertya (entry on the left) is Puri Kawan (the
"Western Court") - part of the former palace of the
king of Singaraja. It is currently the location of Perusahaan
Puri Sinar Nadiputra, a textile mill where sarung are woven.
A
few meters to the east is a major crossroads with a market on
the southeast corner. To the southwest is the Sasana Budaya (the
Buleleng Arts Center), and to the northeast lies Puri Kanginan
(the "Eastern Palace'), formerly part of the Singaraja court
and now a private residence.
Two
sites to the south of Singaraja, Bratan and Gitgit, are well worth
a visit. The village of Bratan a few kms away is a center for
silversmith. They make religious items and, less frequently, jewelry.
You can watch the craftsmen at work and buy directly from them,
or purchase their wares at shops located on the left-hand side
of the main road.
If
you have private transport, a visit to Gitgit is a must. Ten kin
south of Singaraja, this is the site of Bali's most dramatic waterfall.
The road to Gitgit climbs steeply, offering fine views along the
way. The waterfall, located about 500 in from the main road, is
surrounded by lush vegetation. A fine, cooling mist hangs in the
air, providing a refreshing welcome after the walk down. Dip your
feet in the rushing river below. A rest area suitable for picnics
has been built near the base of the falls.
To
the west
The
major attractions of western Buleleng are mainly concentrated
between Singaraja and the village of Seririt, 21 kms west along
the coast, as well as in the hills to the south.
Six
km west of Singaraja, the popular beach resort of Lovina is a
long stretch of black sand bordering the coastal villages of Anturan,
Tukad Mungga, Kalibukbuk, Kaliasem and Temukus. Numerous hotels
and restaurants have sprung up here, lining the coast for some
7 km. The pace of life at Lovina reflects the calmness and safety
of the sea. This is an excellent spot for swimming and snorkeling,
particularly near the reef, and local boats are for hire. The
sunsets at Lovina are particularly spectacular.
The
name "Lovina" was coined by the last king of Buleleng.
A convert to Christianity, he gave the name to a small tract of
land that he purchased at Kaliasem, where he built the Tasik Madu
("Sea of Honey") Hotel in the 1960s. The name Lovina
signifies the "love" that is contained "in"
the heart of all people.
From
Temukus it is 3 kms to the twin villages of Dencarik and Banjar.
Pass through Dencarik to the neighboring village of Banjar Tegeha,
home of the splendid Buddhist Brahma Arama Vihara. This wihara
is the residence of Bali's only Buddhist monk and it plays a central
role in Buddhist religious life
and
education. Opened in 1971, it replace another founded in Banjar
in 1958. It combines architectural and iconographic elements found
throughout the Buddhist world. Quiet, cool, and set high in the
hills, it commands a view down to the ocean. For 10 days each
April and September the wihara is closed to the public while people
from around the world assemble here to practice meditation. Visitors
are requested to dress in a respectful manner, to speak softly,
and to remove their shoes before entering.
Banjar
is also the site of the so-called Air Panas, a sacred hot-spring.
In 1985 the sulphurous spring water was channeled into public
bathing area consisting of 3 pools, set in a tasteful blend of
jungle and garden. The water is a pleasant 38' C. There are changing
rooms, showers, toilets and a restaurant.
If
traveling by public transport, it is easy to reach the wihara
and Air Panas from main road. At the entrance to Dencarik and
Banjar you can pay a man to take you there by motorbike.
Just
3 km west of Banjar lies Seririt; the former commercial center
of Buleleng. It was devastated by an earthquake in 1976 and was
subsequently rebuilt. Seririt does not in itself warrant a visit.
However, if you have private transport, there are two scenic drives
worth taking that commence there.
Turn
south at Seririt and follow the r as it climbs through the villages
of Bubunan petemon, Ringdikit and Rangdu. The further one ventures
along this road the more impressive the scenery becomes. At Rangdu
you may take a right turn at the T-intersection, which leads to
Denpasar via Pupuan. Alternatively, you may choose to continue
along the road from Rangdu to Mayong, Gunungsari, Banyuatis and
Kayuputih, spectacular views are to be had of rice terraces, coffee
and clove plantations, the surrounding hills and, behind, the
Buleleng coast. From Kayuputih it is a further 13 km to Munduk,
located 1200 m above sea level. Although presently undergoing
repair, the road between Kayuputih and Munduk is neither for the
faint-of-heart nor for vehicles with bald tyres. It comprises
a series of narrow hair-pin turns and alternates between asphalt
and dirt, with many deep potholes.
From
Munduk the road runs atop hills that surround two lakes - Tamblingan
and Buyan (the latter is also visible on the left hand side of
the approach to Singaraja from Bedugul). These lakes were one
body of water until a landslide split them in 1818. The road then
emerges at Wanagiri near l1ancasari, just north of Bedugul.
Seririt
to Teluk Terima
After
Seririt the road leaves the coast, taking a sharp turn inland
- for much of the rest of the journey to the west, the ocean is
no longer visible, and the landscape is dominated by the mountains
and hills of the south.
The
sheltered harbor of Celukan Bawang, 16 km west of Siririt, now
serves as the port for Buleleng's import and export trade.
Further
west, near the village of Banyupoh, experience the delights of
Pantai Gondol, a superb beach with clean sand and a beautiful
coral reef Pantai Gondol is a marvelous spot for swimming and
snorkeling. It is also the site of a fishery research project.
A
cluster of temples, the most important and easily accessible of
which is Pura Pulaki, lies some 30 km past Seririt on the coast.
Pura Pulaki is located in unusual terrain - a rock-face rises
perpendicularly on the left-hand side of the road while the glimmering
ocean laps the right-hand side. Pulaki, the home of monkeys who
have a repUtation for snatching bags and cameras, has recently
undergone restoration and extension. The temple has a fascinating
history that is linked to the legendary personage of Nirartha,
a Javanese priest who migrated to Bali in the 16th century. It
is told that prior to his arrival, a village of 8000 people existed
here. When Nirartha visited, the village leader requested a boon
that Nirartha granted: the entire village was to be given supernatural
knowledge that would enable it to attain an immaterial state.
The invisible occupants of this village became known as gamang
or wong samar and form the entourage of Goddess Melanting, whose
abode is the nearby Pura Melanting.
The
Balinese in these parts fervently believe in the existence of
the gamang and routinely make offerings to them. For example,
it is held that the entry of gamang into one's house yard is heralded
by the howling of dogs. Occasional reports even circulate of the
sighting of gamang who have momentarily materialized - they are
said to have no upper lip and carry a plaited bag over one shoulder.
The
final stage of this journey through western Buleleng passes through
Taman Nasional Bali Barat, the West Bali National Park. Past Labuhan
Lalang jetty, boats to Menjangan Island can be hired.
At
Teluk Terima, a short distance down the road, visit Makam Jayaprana,
the gravesite of Jayaprana. According to Balinese legend, Jayaprana
was an orphan who was raised by the ruler of Kalianget village.
As an adult he married the lovely Nyoman Layonsari from the neighboring
village of Banjar. However, the ruler himself became enamored
of Jayaprana's bride and schemed to kill Jayaprana to have her
for himself. He dispatched Jayaprana with an army to contain a
band of pirates who he said had arrived in northwestern Bali.
On arrival at Teluk Terima the ruler's minister killed and buried
Jayaprana. When the ruler asked Layonsari to marry him, however,
she chose to remain faithful to her husband and committed suicide.
The
temple marking Jayaprana's grave is a long and steep climb but
the views from about halfway across to Mt Semeru on Java, to Menjangan
Island, and to Gilimanuk at the western tip of Bali, make the
effort all worthwhile. The temple, which contains a glass case
displaying statues of Jayaprana and Layonsari, is pure kitsch.
